Cheese Focaccia So Nice, You’ll Eat It Twice

A flaky, beautifully burnished four-cheese focaccia is the draw at Angelina, a new bakery in Hell’s Kitchen. It is an exceptional treat, and even better when warmed and devoured on the spot. Take several portions of it home ($4.75 a piece) to cut into two-inch squares to serve, also heated, as cocktail snacks. Antonio Park — an owner and the baker, whose family is from Palermo, Sicily — adds zucchini, a nice touch, to some. He also makes rather run-of-the-mill focaccia and pizzas by the square, with various toppings, as well as huge, pillowy bomboloni and layer cakes. An uncommon specialty is focaccia di Recco, a parchment-thin double-crusted flatbread filled with stracchino cheese ($7 a slice), a specialty of Liguria. Usually enormous, they’re baked plate size here and sold until they run out. Mr. Park named the bakery for his daughter, not for the Parisian confectionery opening a few blocks away.

Angelina Bakery, 575 Eighth Avenue (38th Street), 212-261-4534,

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Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks.

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